Thank god Air NZ has finally updated its uniforms 🧑‍✈️

Air NZ has unveiled its new uniforms designed by Emilia Wickstead – Zoe shares her thoughts

What do you think of the uniforms? Let us know:

In March 2023 I wrote an opinion piece bluntly declaring, “It’s time for Air NZ to update its uniforms”. Two months later, the airline announced exactly that: after 12 years, they were looking for a new designer to give it an update. I had no insider information about their plans; just a lot of opinions, mostly about one piece in particular.

“The waistcoat, with its checkerboard pattern on the back featuring various ‘NZ’ motifs and the Australian saying ‘gidday’, is truly corny,” I wrote, calling it the worst part of the 2011-era uniforms (told you: I’m blunt).

I believed, and still do, that our national carrier, and by extension, Aotearoa, deserved uniforms that reflect who we are today. That’s a big ask for clothes, let alone workwear. Because what does it mean to be a New Zealander today, especially after the division sowed by the (just voted down) Treaty Principles Bill and other dog-whistle politics led by the current coalition? I do know that New Zealanders of all political stripes in 2025 value beautiful design, and are deeply proud of Aotearoa’s Māori culture. We are sophisticated, and we want to celebrate our indigenous heritage, on a local and global scale.

Back then, I floated names like Juliette Hogan, Kiri Nathan, Paris Georgia, and Wynn Hamlyn as potential candidates for the job of redesigning the Air New Zealand uniform. I was very much looking inward so London-based New Zealand-born designer Emilia Wickstead didn’t initially cross my mind. When she was announced in November 2023 as the ‘winner’ (Air New Zealand asked designers to express interest, and there was a long and extensive pitch process) I was not surprised, but did quietly wonder if choosing someone based overseas played into ingrained cultural cringe; the idea that local talent isn’t enough.

Last night, at a preview event in central Auckland, a few people very eagerly asked me what I thought; I put it down to that stroppy op-ed, and the anticipation surrounding these new designs.

Emilia had sat down for a Q&A with MC Kanoa Lloyd and tā moko artist Te Rangitu Netana (Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Wai and Te Arawa), who she collaborated on all of the prints, and they acknowledged the pressure of taking on such a daunting task given New Zealanders’ sense of pride – and ownership – of the uniforms. “We’re not going to please everyone,” said Te Rangitu, “and I’m sure there’ll be some negative comments… but I don’t care.”

Earlier in the day I had talked to Emilia at the airline’s HQ, where she reflected that her biggest challenge of the entire process was that everyone cares so much about these uniforms. “Of course I am nervous because at the end of the day, I'm pleasing 6000 members of Air New Zealand plus the rest of the nation.”

This “soft skirt”, worn here with a matching blouse, pays subtle tribute to the past Air NZ uniforms from Barbara Lee and was created after Emilia had feedback from workers.

Having seen the Emilia Wickstead x Air NZ uniforms in person and up close, and in Derek Henderson’s sweeping images shot in Queenstown, it’s clear that she and Te Rangitu have created something special – that is of this place and can proudly represent Aotearoa outside of it. And a lot of care has gone into it.

I like the uniform. It’s simple and elegant, the details feel considered and special: the prints all have deep meaning for both wearer and viewer, there are Matariki stars stitched on every sleeve and managers have huia feathers (“The feather is embroidered on and the idea is that when you retire one day, you'll unpick and take that feather with you”; adorable).

Fabrics are organic cotton, recycled polyester and merino wool; there are adjustable tabs and deep pockets. All those design and functional details might go unappreciated by the wider New Zealand public but fashion nerds like myself will appreciate them deeply.

The uniform’s subtly might unsettle some people after so many years of the garish ‘twilight pink’, koru print and hideous waistcoat — and the striking double-breasted pinstripe jackets might take some getting used to (RNZ’s Morning Report likened it to Winston Peters pinstripes; lol) — but I think it has a real quiet confidence. And that really does reflect Aotearoa in 2025.

“I hope that all of the quiet messaging speaks volumes,” Emila told me, “and that when the crew are wearing it, that people ask questions – like, ‘what is that on your sleeve’ or ‘what is that beautiful print’, and [wearers] can talk to it because they’ll feel proud of it.”

The palette is cohesive and feels focused – purple, black, white, that’s it (“it’s important to keep it focused because you want everyone to stand out as a collective”) – and the prints are gorgeous.

Two prints from the collection, hand-drawn by Te Rangitu.

Hand-drawn by Te Rangitu, they’re inspired by kōwhai flowers and the feathers of Kiwi and Kākā; there’s the pepeha print using a tāniko pattern and the purapura whetū print featuring a pātiki pattern.

I truly love that there’s a ie faitaga [formal lavalava] to reflect Aotearoa as a proud Pacific nation, and Emilia’s own Pasifika background (her father, Dennis Popham, was part-Samoan).

Coooooool!!!!! I really hope Air NZ keeps the ie faitaga (it’s being ‘trialled’ at first).

I love the update on the old pussybow blouse as a chic ‘tui knot’ neckline on dresses and blouses, and the bold statement of the purple pinstripe trenchcoat; Emilia describes it as very 90s-raincoat inspired.

A 90s-style pinstripe trenchcoat.

I love the unisex blouse. Steven, who appears in the campaign wearing the blouse with trousers, was at the launch event wearing the same ensemble (and giving heart hands to Emilia while she was on stage). They were excited by the new uniform and having the unisex option – and by the “glamour” of it all.

A unisex blouse, featuring Emilia’s ‘tui’ knot at the neck.

But, importantly, it looks like the uniform works for a variety of body types and shapes – something that the previous uniform by Trelise Cooper did do well (and Zambesi’s, unfortunately, did not). Emilia’s will now go into ‘testing’, worn by those onboard in May, with details to be refined from that feedback before it is rolled out to the wider ‘network’ in 2026.

Another version of the kōwhai print.

When I spoke to Emilia, she talked about how she’d wanted to do this since she was a little girl and, later, had even written to Air NZ on a number of occasions about the potential of designing a new uniform (this is a designer who, in the early days of her brand, rang up magazines like British Vogue pretending to be ‘Emilia Wickstead’s assistant’ to set up a meeting; she has balls).

That might read like PR talking points but I reckon she’s genuine: she had family members, including her godmother, who worked for the airline, her mother, Angela Wickstead was a well-known fashion designer back in the day, and her aunt was once editor of Fashion Quarterly, so a childhood dream to design New Zealand’s most high-profile uniform isn't far-fetched. “It’s definitely from a very heartfelt place that I have wanted to do this and I wanted to do it full body, heart and soul,” says Emilia.

She also got choked up and emotional while speaking at the launch event. “I’m actually a very serious person and never cry,” she said; I wasn’t sure if she was joking or not, but it was a charming line.

Garments, like the pilot’s stripes here, are lined with prints inside - this is the Kiwi print.

There were some parameters while developing the uniforms. She had to use print – and working closely with Te Rangitu was the correct choice in respecting te ao Māori – and also had to use the colour purple (did you know this was an Air NZ colour?! I did not). But she was extremely particular about the shade used.

“Listen, it wasn't the first colour that came to mind when I was thinking of the uniforms, but I had my interpretation of what I wanted that purple to be,” she says. “I was very strong-minded in what I wanted that shade of purple to be.

“This purple has strength to it. It has resilience and it feels very empowering. As a shade it feels quite responsible, serious and sophisticated.”

Can I just say: Resilience and responsible are perfect words when talking about fashion and clothing.

Waistcoat alert!

As for the waistcoat… There is one. But the ‘always blow on the pie’ and ‘gidday’ grid print is gone; good riddance. Emilia’s new version is called ‘The Runway Cut’ and features Te Rangitu’s purple kākā feather and pepeha prints; it’s described it as “cloaking the wearer in mana and authority”. And that really does represent Aotearoa, today.