Crying at fashion week 🥹

A daily dispatch from NZFW and beyond

Jordan Daniels wearing Carlson and Anti, at last night’s Into the Archives opening show. Photo / Radlab for NZFW

Hello and good afternoon 💜 I’m still thinking about last night’s NZ Fashion Week Kahuria Into the Archives opening show, a 63-look presentation of 30+ years of New Zealand fashion set against the backdrop of Tāmaki Makaurau’s skyline. It felt like a defining moment for our small but passionate industry. There were tears! You can read our reflections, and other first day ‘field notes’, below.

This afternoon I’m heading to Yu Mei’s ‘in conversation’ at Coastal Signs’ new gallery, followed by shows from Juliette Hogan, Taylor and Harris Tapper. THEN our screening of Suspiria with Rachel Mills. Most importantly, Rebecca and I will be making time to go and eat an Ensemble x Daily Bread eclair.

In today’s NZFW newsletter: party pics from last night, share your outfits in our chat, thoughts on Judith Collins at NZFW, reflections of the Into the Archives show from outside (me + Rebecca) and backstage (Dan) and a review of the loos.

Into the night: Street style at NZ Fashion Week's opening

Ange Kong and Copper Maesteal. Photo / Abigail Dell’avo

People-watching alert! Photographer Abigail Dell'avo and her trusty camera went along to last night’s opening event and show to capture some of the outfits off the runway.

Join us in the chat

🩰⁠⁠ TONIGHT! 🩰⁠⁠

Suspiria (1977) is showing this evening at Academy Cinemas as a part of our Fashion Film Festival, selected by designer Rachel Mills. No door sales, so get your tickets now, and come dressed in your balletcore/technicolor/70s 'fits.⁠ Tickets to all our screenings are $15 + booking fees - we've kept it as affordable as possible, so everyone can be part of the fun.

Zoe’s daily dispatch

Personal field notes, observations, chats and cameo appearances.

We are putting a value on our work, experience and knowledge, so these will be paywalled throughout the rest of the week. Support our work by upgrading to a paid subscription for $7 a month and help us to continue having a unique and opinionated POV!

Politics and power dressing at the opening

“Long may it be a driver of the economy,” may not have been the most creatively inspiring way to officially declare NZFW 2025 open, but Judith Collins’ speech at the opening event was an acknowledgement at least from the current government that the local industry is on its radar. It did also feel like a reflection of the vibe shift.

“Looking through my wardrobes, it is clear the economic driver is myself - and quite a few of you here tonight,” said Judith. “And we have to keep doing that. We have to keep the economy going and make us all rich and stuff.”

I asked her what she was wearing: a Trelise Cooper coat and dress, and a layering piece from “ages ago”. “I like to put things away and pull them out to wear again years later,” she told me. That’s one thing we can agree on.

Also in attendance was mayor Wayne Brown and deputy Desley Simpson (local body election voting opens next week), and Arts, Culture and Heritage minister Paul Goldsmith with his daughter. I wish Auckland Central MP and Greens co-leader Chlöe Swarbrick had been able to attend, to balance out the politics.

Props to Mindful Fashion NZ chair and designer Juliette Hogan, who went straight up to National’s Collins and Goldsmith after the speeches to advocate for the industry - here’s hoping the government takes a meeting with the organisation.

Into the Archives, reviewed

Model Sykes wears a Goldi knit and Sleeping Profit skirt. The Hills Hat straw hat blew off in the wind, woops!

By Zoe: Full disclosure: I helped behind the scenes on this show, so I cannot review it objectively. My ‘official’ title in the catalogue was ‘archives advisor’, which really means I had strong opinions on literally everything as curator and stylist Dan and his team (shout out Courtney Joe, Natasha Ovely and Levi Tan) pulled the 63 looks together. But as a genuine fan of vintage shopping, and someone who collects archival NZ fashion (there were a few of my own garments featured), I did feel like this was a poignant way to reflect on what our industry stands for and how clothing can help shape Aotearoa’s national identity.

It was a lot of fun, and really inspiring, to witness the process, and watch as themes emerged; there was a lot of black, yes, but my favourite themes were the surfy coastal vibes, the urban streetwear and the ‘irreverent’ prints and colour that are actually a huge part of NZ’s fashion (I called it ‘wacky’ but Dan didn’t like that lol). This is us!

The show moved a lot of people; a good show does that. There were tears backstage, and teary-eyes in the front row (everyone was front row; the public could also watch as they commuted home which was adorable). It was the clothes, yes, but the music, the city skyline, the sunset, the cast. I loved seeing designers’ faces light up as pieces from their past walked by; a reminder of their hard work and creativity. And a reminder that good design lasts, well-made clothes last. That is something we as an industry need to continue to champion, in the face of ultra-fast fashion and the churn of trends and consumerism.

The deep cuts from the 80s, 90s and 00s were all fab, of course, but it was really important that the show included just some of the young designers of right now - Crochet Bae, Anti, Sleeping Profit, Rhoda Nunn, Goldi - worn with vintage pieces from established names. The local fashion industry has no future without the upstarts.

By Rebecca: I hate nostalgia and try not to get caught up in the ‘good old days’ of the industry. A time before e-commerce and algorithms where creativity was everything! And all the models were size 8, white and under 17. Every time NZFW has discussed a retrospective show I’ve felt looking back pointless, it’s the future we need to worry about. But I underestimated the quiet, unassuming intelligence of Dan Ahwa. Under Dan’s vision the show became a celebration of a vibrant, creative industry comprising a national identity that grounds us deeply in who we are as Kiwi. This was perfectly summarised in the finale look comprising design heroes Carlson and Gloria alongside rising star Anti’s ‘Here Now’ top and ‘Hopeful’ hat. I actually did leave hopeful.

The show soundtrack: Blouson Noir by Aaron, System Virtue by Emma Paki, Pōkarekare Ana by Geneva AM, Red Sunset by Bic Runga, Pressure Man by the Feelers, Pikipiki by Geneva AM.

Behind the scenes with Zoe

The show catalogue. I forgot to take a photo of the credits page, but I can tell you that I spend HOURS on it 🫠

I thought this was adorable: volunteers - the unsung heroes of NZFW - queue up to steam clothes backstage before the show.

A closer look at the World Swarovski suit, worn by model Sylvia in the show. It’s really heavy! It was originally shown in 2008, from a collection called There Is No Depression in New Zealand - the day that the stock market crashed, leading to a recession that had an enduring impact on the local fashion industry (it was rough but did spark a whole new wave of brands). That overt excess during something quite bleak feels very… now.

Fashion family: Shona Wilson, wearing a Kate Sylvester cape from 2007, with her daughter Claudia, wearing Twenty-seven Names (2019), backstage after the show that they both walked in.

Manahou Mackay, who flew back home to open the show (wearing Trelise Cooper and Georgia Alice), backstage with show curator and stylist Dan Ahwa.

How it felt backstage

Dan Ahwa spent months pulling this show together, with a small but mighty team behind the scenes. He sent this report at midnight last night, after packing down.

The energy backstage was as busy and chaotic as you’d expect in the heightened environment of a fashion show. But something about this one felt different.

Having styled many fashion week shows over the years, this one was about celebrating the amazing people who have, in some way, inspired me over the years with their innate sense of style or personality. Of course there are more people who have inspired me but prefer to be behind the scenes - namely Zoe and my incredibly supportive, methodical, creative and talented team of Courtney Joe, Natasha Ovely and Levi Tan. Working in community and collaborating in this way is what this show was about - and in many ways, the essence of what Ensemble is all about too.

Having Taika Waititi, someone who has shaped so much of our culture, come through and get changed into his Zambesi look was a joyful experience. Seeing Albert Cho, someone who has worked hard to change the way people dine out, with his beloved chihuahua Chewie was a sweet moment.

Having Manahou Mackay open the show and Jordan Daniels close felt like a special celebration of their success, and the way they’ve both stayed connected to their roots. Venus Blacklaws, Alex Scott, Micheal McCabe, Shona Wilson, Milan Borich, Kaarina Parker, Jujulipps: people who inspire me with their artistry. Bic Runga debuting her new song Red Sunset. So many highlights to cherish.

Working with Geneva AM was fun! Her music carried me through the creative process of putting this show together, and it was an honour to have her guitar-infused reclamation of beloved ballad Pōkarekare Ana from her new album. We also played her song PikiPiki as the finale track as her music is about finding hope and positivity in challenging times.

I am so happy that timing of the show matched the music perfectly, and that Auckland’s notoriously fickle weather decided to stay clear for us with a beautiful sunset as the city lit up - the perfect backdrop for this celebration of NZ fashion.

Outfits I saw and liked

I was so happy to meet Aorangi Kora, also known as Crochet Bae. Her crocheted cardigan inspired by the colours of the Palestinian flag and the patterns of a keffiyeh caught my eye at the opening formalities, and I had to take a pic. The cool leather bag is the best finishing touch.

Darling Yawynne! She’s back from the UK for the week, working with Raaie, and we squealed when we saw each other outside. Love how she’s made black interesting, with the textures, earrings and cute pink bag.

Reviewed: The loos 🚽

Emma Gleason reports from the most hardworking area of NZFW

Selfie lovers and anyone who appreciates an unexpected pop of colour will be missing the energetic yellow loos of Viaduct Events Centre, but I'm happy to report that the Shed 10 bogs are well-appointed and very chill. I was in them during the opening night party (needed to take five and dissociate, also pee) and considering the room was packed, the bathroom was quiet and more or less deserted. For anyone looking to answer the call of nature or touch up your beat, take the stairs up from the main foyer and then do a U. Who knows who you'll meet!